‘95 Accord, Which Wire Is The Tcc Lockup Signal?
I have a ‘95 Accord (with the VTEC if it matters). It is having issues with locking the torque converter. Under normal driving on the highway it will lock and then unlock. I almost thinking that the throttle position sensor may be causing it.
As I apply more throttle it will lock. If I back off of the throttle slightly (as if I started down a hill) but I do not completely release the throttle, it will unlock and then I end up revving a few hundred more rpm. It will stay unlocked under normal load and maintaining speed. it will only lock back up as the load increased (accelerate or start climbing a hill).
My idea is to bypass the brake pedal switch and all the others that are in line with the TCC lockup signal. I want to simply add a toggle switch (fused of course) directly to the wire going to the torque converter lock up solenoid, so as I’m driving down the highway I can just flip it on, then turn it off when I need to stop. I don’t really care what the actual problem is, as the car is a cheap commuter and would rather save the cash for something else, unless the actual problem is not expensive… My goal is to reduce heat build up and increase economy, which I wont get when the TC isn’t locking.
Could any of you tell me which wire is the TCC signal (color and tracer color), and if possible, the easiest place to tap this wire?
I’m not sure your problem is with the TCC. The TCC should Un-lock under load such as going up hills, not lock as you say yours is doing.
the TCC is computer controlled. low oil pressure in the trans could be a cause.
it the condition happens right around 40-45 MPH which is the normal engage/disengage range then it sounds like a normal condition. Unless someone fooled around with the TPS that should not be the problem.
A build-up of debris in the TCC oil passages from normal clutch wear inside the transmission could be the cause. if the passage is restricted you won’t have enough oil pressure to keep the clutch engaged and that’s the ‘usual’ cause of a clutch that kicks in and out when the car is over the engagement threshold of 45 MPH. Unfortunately that’s’ also the sign of a failing transmission.
Unless the transmission is slipping or this is happening all the time to the point of making the car undriveable, I wouldn’t spend the money trying to fix the condition.
here’s how you can test the solenoids on that transmission
NOTE:
Lock-up control solenoid valves A and B must be removed/
replaced as an assembly.
1. Disconnect the connector from the lock-up control
solenoid valve A/B.
2. Measure the resistance between the No. 1 terminal
(solenoid valve A) of the lock-up control solenoid valve
connector and body ground, and between the No. 2
terminal (solenoid valve B) and body ground. Note: when looking into the separated connector, terminal No.1 will be the left side and No. 2 will be the right side when the connector lock is on top. The resistance should be between 12-24 Ohms
3. Replace the lock-up control solenoid valve assembly if
the resistance is out of specification.
4. If the resistance is within the standard, connect the
No. 1 terminal of the lock-up control solenoid valve
connector to the battery positive terminal. A clicking
sound should be heard. Connect the No. 2 terminal to
the battery positive terminal. A clicking sound should
be heard. Replace the lock-up control solenoid valve
assembly if no clicking sound is heard.
the Solenoids are a pair of solenoids on the top side of the transmission. that would be the easiest way to get to them to do any testing.